Firudo

As I walked into this lovely restaurant on a sunny mid-afternoon in August, I noted two things immediately: the neat, delicately styled but comfortable Asian decor, and a heavenly scent of flowery-fruity-spicey something cooking in the kitchen that made my mouth water!

Now, it’s true, the distinctive spices of Oriental cooking are usually evident in an Asian restaurant, b
ut this time it truly smelled l
ke

“bouquet.” That was why I was both surprised and amused when my hostess, Linda Tian — the owner and manager of the restaurant — greeted me with delicate glass pots of tea and tiny glass teacups, explaining that tea, much like wine, is enhanced each with its own aroma, which is part of the delight of sipping tea as a pick-me-up, or wind-me-down mid-afternoon.

In fact, she encourages friends to stop by for an afternoon cup of tea and some of the delightful teacakes and biscuits that accompanied my tea, suggesting this mid-afternoon lull as a time when things are less hectic and quiet conversation is possible in the sunny, spotless interior.

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As I sipped my tea and waited for Tian to have a moment to sit with me, I became aware of a lovely but unexpected soundtrack lilting in the background: not the expected chimes and strings of Oriental music, but beginning with a classical piece, and followed by some new age piano and strings, I eventually found myself listening to the theme from Game of Thrones — as I nibbled on a shortbread-like biscuit, filled with small chips of nuts, and not so sweet that they would take the edge off an appetite, but perfect if just a little “something” was all that was needed.

Even at this off-hour, the restaurant had a murmur of conversation in the background, but a serene atmosphere and no sense of being rushed.

Firudo has just had its grand opening here in Syracuse, but Tian’s story began in the United States in New York City. Following the 9/11 event, she moved her restaurant to Oswego, where she owned and operated a restaurant for more than a decade before finally deciding to relocate to Syracuse.

Conveniently located on Erie Boulevard, and with ample parking and easy access, Tian has established herself in the International Community, and hopes to become a regular stop for both that community, and students, as well as the long-time Syracuse resident and diner.

Her cuisine is, as she explains it, based on the Japanese cooking she learned as a child, but with her “picky” sense of taste and her interest in appealing to both the American palate and her own sense of what is good.

Some foods, she explained, are prepared in the more simple and stark Japanese style — lightly grilled fish, for example, chosen for its perfection and the specific cut of the fish that best suits the dish — and then she might add a sauce more Chinese in its complexity of seasonings.

Some foods, like their v
ery popular stir fries, are more “mom” foods, or what we would deem “comfort “ foods: a little more hearty, a little differently seasoned, and a little more “American-Asian.”

She began by serving me some exquisite fried calamari with a special sauce ($6.99). Now full confession: I am not typically a calamari girl. I have had bad luck with it being far too chewy and “fishy” tasting — so I was apprehensive. I shouldn’t have been! Crisped perfectly, the meat was tender and flavorful, and the sauce, which Tian explained to me was a blend of fruits in a creamy base, rendered this one of the most delicious foods I’ve ever eaten! This was brought to the table along with some delightful cold shrimp and vegetable dumplings in a thin wrapper to be dipped in soy sauce. I would have been perfectly content to just gobble these treats up and say “Wonderful!”

But there was more.

Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant can also handle parties of up to about 30 in a private room, and does catering. They expect to open a full bar soon, and Tian told me her husband’s family has a winery in California, so not only will they be serving special wines from the family vineyard, but they will also enjoy her husband’s expertise in wines to help choose accompaniments to the unique flavors of her kitchen.

Next came a sushi appetizer. By now Americans are acquainted with sushi, but I have to say that this was an unusual dish not only for the delicacy of its flavors, but for the mix of colors and, again, texture. Mixed into a tempting small heap of identically sized bites were yellow tail, white tuna, salmon, and avocado — all lightly seasoned and quite delectable.

Several plates of fish were brought to us — each served enticingly on a bed of carefully prepared and presented vegetables, and each offering a signature flavor and texture.

Tian told me that each type of fish was prepared according to not only its own characteristics, but also to a blend of cookery that is uniquely her own: she tastes things, and if they don’t taste right to her, she will work on the dish until it’s perfect. Just like the fish. She is fussy about her selections, and different portions of the fish are used for different dishes prepared at Firudo.

I tried a Chilean Sea Bass ($10.99), which was as flaky and light as could be, lightly seasoned so as not to overpower its delicate white fish flavor and texture.

While I was pondering the flavors, Tian asked for a pot of Ramen soup to be brought out, as we had been discussing the many noodle dishes Asian cooking is famous for — and that the story of Marco Polo and spaghetti is, indeed, true! About this time, two of Tian’s little ones, a girl about 8 and a boy of perhaps 4 joined us at the table and shared our meal with huge smiles and explanations of what they liked best. This just served to reinforce Tian’s letting me know that the restaurant is not only family friendly, but offers foods that even your fussy little ones will enjoy!

Now I have to pause and explain “ramen soup” to you, as an American. I admit to a guilty pleasure of eating Ramen soup from a package now and again. It’s filling and salty and generally tasty in a back-porch kind of way.

The soup that Tian share with me was something else entirely. The stock, she told me, had been created from simmering beef and beef bones for hours, which was quite clear from the depth of flavor of the broth — you could taste the “health” and richness with each spoonful. It was hearty, complex, delicious, and, as Tian told me, she does pay attention to the healthfulness of her foods. She stresses freshness, flavor, variety, and if it can also be good for you — why not?

Again, I would have contentedly stopped — but there were more delights in store!

Out came two platters, one heaped with barbecued scallops, and an amazingly delicious Chili Red Snapper: grilled red snapper with a sweet chili sauce. This Tian deemed a comfort food — and I will confess of all the many wonderful flavors I experienced, this was perhaps my favorite.

As I nibbled on a bite of this and a forkful of that, Tian explained that she combines not only items and flavors, but methods of cooking to get her desired results: she will sear a piece of meat or fish to seal in the juices and the flavor of the meat or fish itself; then she will add a sauce or some spices, and, depending on the dish, cook it again to seal that flavor into the dish. A final sauce might be added to finalize the medley of tastes.

Whatever it is she is doing, I will say that this is one Pan-Asian restaurant that offers both all your favorite standbys — fried rice, steamed dumplings, noodle dishes, and Teriyaki treats — with others you may not be as familiar with, such as Katsu (meat lightly battered and fried), a Teishoku dinner (a traditional Japanese dinner with Sushi or Sashimi), and of course a Shushi bar where you can sit and order by the piece.

If stopping to dine at leisure isn’t possible, you can order take out.

Either way, do yourself a favor and try Asian cuisine a la Linda Tian!

Nancy Roberts